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Frigidaire PGLEF365EC1 Electric Range Timer
What is the timer/clock part number for the Frigidaire PGLEF365EC1 Electric Range?
The PGLEF365EC1 Electric Range uses timer part number 316418760.
Do you have a failed Frigidaire PGLEF365EC1 control panel? Click here:
We can repair or replace your faulty Frigidaire PGLEF365EC1 timer.
PGLEF365EC1 are also sometimes referred to using these Alternative Names/Model numbers
Electrolux PGLEF365EC1 Electric Range
PGLEF365EC1 Schematic and Wiring Diagrams
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Common problems for Frigidaire PGLEF365EC1 Electric Range Timer
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The dryer will only run if the button is held in. I replaced the starter switch and it does the same thing. What should I do next.
Refrigerator is slightly over 1 year old. Randomly for the past couple weeks we have noticed the freezer temp fluctuate between 0 and 8 degrees. Then, for the past 2 days, the temp has been around 19-20 degrees F. The compressor seems to be running all the time (I guess it is trying to catch up to the set point - 0 F). The refrig is still working just fine. I did not notice any ice build up in the freezer. I took off the back panel and made sure everything is clean. The fan is blowing air over the coils. Any ideas?
I've seen similar problems but wanted to list my specifics. The oven top works and the clock numbers are lit, but the oven doesn't work. I cannot set the clock and when I press the Bake button the red Lock light comes on. I can get the clock to work if I mess around pressing buttons enough. I suspect it needs a new control panel. Does that sound right?
My parents have a Goodman Gas/Electric Package Unit Model# PGB048125-1. The system stop cooling and won't turn on at all. A check of the the flashing error light on system board indicates "Compressor Output Delay". It flashes 6 times over and over. After 3 minutes the system tries to start again. The error light goes steady (normal operation) then returns to flashing 6 times again. Neither the blower fan motor, condensor fan motor or compressor come on. If I manually push the contactor pole in the compressor and condensor fan run. Does anyone have an idea what I am facing with on fixing the problem.
The evap coil keeps freezing solid. When problem first started, I noticed that the condenser fan was not working. I replaced the main board, the condenser fan motor.Restarted system and problem returned. Next I replaced the evap thermostat. Once thawed and restarted everything will work fine for about two weeks. Then the ice buildup forms and the fridge section warms up. Used multimeter to check resistance of defrost heater. Showed about 34 ohms. I was told that this model does not have a defrost clock so not sure what to check next.
Hello to everyone. After searching through the forum and finding out some useful information I am needing to get some input on my problem. My fridge just stopped cooling today and upon inspection I found the condenser motor not working. I checked the voltage and found 11.8 volts. I seen where most people have replaced the motherboard because of numerous failures and was wanting to find out my options with this. I wanted to include my mod and ser numbers to the appliance techs so maybe they could tell me if the board would be covered in the free replacement I've read about.Also, if anyone knows have there been any changes made to the condenser motors as far as an alternate replacement or am I just stuck paying over 100 bucks for this thing?
I have a GE Profile fridge (PFS22MBS) that is experiencing defrost problems. Both the fridge and freezer will hold there temps for a few weeks, then eventually the freezer will start dropping into the negatives and the fridge will start warming up. The evaporation coils are completely blocked with ice. I have to manually defrost with a hair dryer before the unit will hold steady again (only temporary). I have replaced the motherboard and have checked the continuity of the defrost thermostat, reading about 30 ohm and the blue surface is flat. What else could I check for?
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