Magic Chef 6898XRB Timer

Have a Magic Chef oven mod. 6898XRB. Oven will only reach 175dgs. Display reads the temp that oven was set for. There are no fault codes on the display. Can you help? Thanks

I have a Magic Chef Smooth Cook Top with a "T" clock. It is a Model 6898XRB. It displays an F 1 on the display and starts beeping. The manual says this is a fault code and to turn it off press the clear button. The range is just sittng there doing nothing, we clear the code and it may not come on again for hours or days. What is it trying to tell us? Thanks, Kenny

It has a heating element in the oven that keep burning red although the oven and all burners are set to off. The clock works but we disconnected the electricity for safety. I am now using the burners manualy. I do not know if the oven works. I am afraid to test. What can be the problem? Although the gasoven is more than 10 years old, it isin very good condition.

No visible display on the oven/clock electronic controller. Button sounds diminish with each successive press of a button till barely audible. Oven nor clock works. Would this be a problem with the "Electronic oven/clock controller" (12001607) or the "Relay control board" (have no part#) located under the top of the oven between the front burners and just behind the electronic oven/clock controller. The electronic oven/clock controller plugs into the "Relay control board". "Relay control board also has a tranformer on it.

I have witnessed the clock cycling into dim and bright as the burners on the range top are in use. I have not noticed the clock being dim any other time. I have also noticed that the right front burning is heating in an uneven manner. I replaced the over sensor about six months ago. The oven would not reach the t-stat setting. The oven seems to be heating according to the setting. Is this a control panel/clock problem or do I need to replace the heating elements? NEW INFORMATION: I have been told that over time the capacitors on the control board may contribute to the dim or no display contition. Any idea how hard it is to replace the control board? I may replace the front burner as well. It gets used that most. Many MacMonkey

Hi! I just replaced the clock assembly on this oven because the display stopped working. The problem is the new one does the same thing? Is it possible that I got a faulty clock assembly or could it be something else. Also, the oven will operate (self clean, all the buttons work) but there is no display.

For at least the past year we have had an issue with our Admiral oven heating properly. Prior to that, the range was giving us an error code. But I don't remember what it was because it went away. It could have been related to the clock, I am not sure. Anyways, I performed OHMs tests on the temperature sensor and heating element and both checked out fine as far as specs. THat left the erc or some part of it as the likely suspect. I wanted to try to remove the unit to visually inspect it but am unable to remove the knobs on the front panel for clock, cook time etc. Is there any trick to doing that? I have pulled on them but I do not want to bust them off. However if I was to have to replace the ECU or any part of it I could not do so unless I am able to disconnect it from the front panel. THus the problem with the knobs. Any ideas?

I am a Kenmoron because I put hiking shoes in the dryer.. It ran briefly, then after some loud pounding went silent. I opened it up and found the belt broken, so replaced the belt. Still didn't run. Opened again and went through all electrical connections and cleaned....I did them one at a time so I don't think I mixed any up...but it's not impossible. Yeah, dryer runs, heats, dries clothes. Left the dryer on auto dry when I went to bed....and it's still runnning this morning! clock does not advance on auto or timed dry. I have cleaned all lint out of machine I can find. Cleaned all electrical connections a second time, including moisture sensor terminals. The Thermo Cut-Off (Hi-Limit Thermo) shows some blackening on one of the plastic terminal shrouds. It reads 0 ohms across it with one conductor removed. Also 0 ohms across the two main clock leads, and the lower thermo. I did twirll the clock dial quite a bit when I was trying to get it to work at one point....maybe I broke it? Kenmo

Although my dryer was actually bought in 1977, I have had very few problems until now. It continues to run until I push the knob to off. The knob stays right where it starts and never moves. It does heat and my clothes are drying. I set a manual clock to remind me to turn it off. It is a Kenmore Large Capacity Dryer Model Series 66801-76801. I was told it is the clock.....is it possible to get this part and if so how much is it? Reading the problems that others are having with newer models I feel like I hate to replace the old with new!

The clock won't stay on and the oven keeps going off. Eventually we can get the oven to stay on. Sometimes we have to restart it 15 or 20 times before it will stay on. the Error code is E2 F2